I am sitting on this long board in the middle of the water and I am drifting with the waves. There are small ones which make me feel this little up and down like it would be to sit on a tiny boat. And then there are big ones, the ones you look at from far away and you already think “oh my god, this is huge!”.
I really like the waves. It’s pleasant to feel your own body moving around and you just don’t have to do anything for that. I like the salty water and the cold which surrounds you in this sunny heat. My body feels comfortable and I turn my face towards the evening sun to feel this warm wind around my nose.
A few meters further, there is my man sitting in the waves and watching and observing the sea. He’s such a good surfer and I am so proud of him. From time to time, he’s trying to catch a wave, but the conditions are too bad today. I already resigned to catch some, my paddling condition is just to bad for these big waves. But that’s indifferent for me, I just enjoy these hours watching the others catching the waves and I like to see all the beautiful women with their very short bikinis sitting in the waves like me. It’s this special kind of flair I can’t describe. I once read on a photo:
Things only a surfer can understand!
Yeah, this must be it.
My man has tried to catch a wave and is paddling back towards me. I love how his muscles are making these shadows and how his body is moving in the sea. He used some zinc protecting his face from a sunburn and looks like a warrior with it. It’s the first time he told me to take care, normally it’s the other way round. And I have to laugh because of that, ’cause normally he rants me to not say “take care” all the time.
He gives me a big kiss and paddles away.
Then there is this beautiful sunset… The clouds are shining in different colours and the sun hides behind these clouds forming different patterns and figures. One cloud almost looks like Zeus, the father of the gods, punishing another cloud away with his strong arms. Other clouds seem to look like people or animals and I really love the way the sun shines from above at the clouds so you can see the shadows in the sea which sparkles in all kind of tones. It’s like little diamonds are swimming on the surface and in the background there are different islands with beautiful forests of palms. It’s so wonderful…
My man’s coming back and we paddle together towards the boat which is waiting for us. It’s so amazing seeing the boats being anchored in the evening sun. I am in love with the sea, I am in love with this awesome view and I am absolutely in love with this man showing me la Vida Loka.
I am almost sad to not have a camera with me, but perhaps this is a memory destined only for me!