2020 was a very challenging year. The corona pandemic makes traveling difficult to plan or even impossible. The holiday destination therefore had to be accessible by car and bookable at short notice. A small fishing village caught my eye. Caorle. And Caorle did not disappoint. On the contrary.
Caorle belongs to the region of Veneto and is about 70 kilometers east of Venice. The apartment we rent was cheap but also clean and nice. We did the booking via booking.com. Just search for Agenzia Lampo – Altanea Verde.
First we checked out the beach. To be honest, I was glad that there wasn’t much going on in general. If it were a typical high season without Corona, you would be lying towel to towel here like sardines. But like this, it was sooooo nice.
In the morning and in the afternoon, they offer some animation at the beach for kids, but for adults as well. The woman played some children’s songs and danced. For adults, there was some yoga. Even the older people joyned.
And if you wake up early, you will be rewarded by an amazing sunrise. I loved to go out every morning, doing my morning run along the beachfront. From our accomodation, you can run about 3 kilometers before there’s a moat you can’t jump over.
There are sand dunes behind a fence to be protected from pollution. There must be also a golf course with 18 holes, but I am not a golf player, so I can’t judge if it’s worth going there.
Caorle is a fishing village that still carefully cultivates its traditions that have been preserved over generations. In addition to tourism, fishing is therefore the most important industry in which many Caorlottes work. The fishing port is well worth a visit, especially in the afternoons when a centuries-old custom is played out: fishermen tie up their boats and clean and repair the nets, just as generations of fishermen have done before them.
It is always a pleasure to stroll through the center of Caorle, through narrow streets and across idyllic crowds, through and brightly painted, restored fishermen’s houses and the beautiful facades of the old patrician residences, at the cathedral and the little church of the Madonna di Pompei.
But why Caorle?
I checked Instagram before my booking and then I knew – I want to visit this place:
I knew that it would be a wonderful place, but I did not knew that the way up to this church was a way filled with so much details and lovely art. You just walk up some stairs and on the other side, you reach the right path. The stones at the side before the sea are full of sculptors. There is a stone with a snake in it, a stone which looks like a hand,… Really beautiful. And at the end of this road, there is the Madonna dell’Angelo. I think you can’t go into the tower, but the church is open and offers a calmy place.
We lit a candle and thought of our beloved ones before stepping out in the sunshine walking towards the centre of Caorle.
I tried to pet the cat, but she was a little bitch and clawed at me.
Incidentally, the center of Caorle consisted of three islets in earlier times, which were connected by four bridges. Instead of streets there were navigable canals (which were called “rio” as in Venice), lined with fishermen’s houses, which today shine again in the typical facade colors of Venetian tradition. It is said, by the way, that the fishermen painted their houses so brightly that they could see them from the sea even in foggy weather.
From the middle of the 19th century, these canals were filled in bit by bit to make it easier for vehicles to move forward. However, the original names have been preserved, as in the case of the Rio Terrà (which translates as “filled canal”).
The cathedral of Caorle stands in the Piazza Vescovado and is – with its construction year 1038 – the oldest and most important building in the city. It is consecrated to Saint Stephen, built in the Romanesque style with Byzantine elements and houses numerous art-historical treasures, including a Roman grave altar from the 1st century A.D., the main altarpiece “Pala d’Oro “ from 13-14. Century (a masterpiece of Venetian goldsmithing with Byzantine style influences) and a wooden crucifix from the 15th century. There is also a fresco of Saint Christopher from the 15th century, a baptismal font from 1587 and the remarkable paintings by the Venetian school from the 16th and 17th centuries. The cathedral can be visited daily during the day, but not during masses.
The bell tower is the symbol of Caorle and one of the few original cylindrical bell towers at all. It dates from the 11th century, is 48 meters high and inclines slightly to the east. The tower has recently been restored. By appointment, you can climb it, even in the evening in summer to capture the atmospheric Caorle atmosphere at sunset. Just climb the 80 steps … and let your gaze wander from the sea to the lagoon!
If you travel with kids or animal lovers, you can visit the parco zoo punta verde. It’s really a lovely place with healthy animals. It’s about 1 hour by car. They made it with love and you can see some stories about the animals to read at the boards.
Caorle, lovely place to be.